Friday, December 12
In the morning, I woke up and relaxed at the flat in Cologne. I was supposed to check out by 11 AM, so I stayed there until around that time. I didn’t see the host when I left; I simply left the keys on the desk.
After leaving, I felt a bit hungry, so I started looking for a kebab shop. The night before, after training, a judoka approached me and asked what I wanted to know or ask about Germany. I asked him what the best food in Germany was, and he answered, “kebab.” I didn’t understand him at first, but I was with a Japanese person who speaks German, so he translated it for me.
I had heard that there are many Turkish people in Germany, which explains why there are so many kebab shops. That made sense to me. Once I heard this, I became determined to try it, so I searched for a kebab shop for lunch. I found a restaurant called Kebapland that seemed popular in the area. It was located near a station, so it was easy to access.
When I went inside, I realized there were only three or four high tables. There were about four people inside, including someone cleaning the tables. They also offered takeout. Since every customer was paying in cash, I asked the cashier if card payment was possible. He told me they didn’t accept cards. Since arriving in Europe, I had never been refused card payment anywhere, so this surprised me.
I didn’t have cash, but I was determined to eat there, so I went to an ATM nearby to withdraw some money. I checked the menu first and thought everything was under 10 euros, so I withdrew only 10 euros. When I returned, I realized the kebab that I wanted to try cost more than 10 euros. I had to go back to the ATM and withdraw another 10 euros. In the end, withdrawing 20 euros in cash cost me about 50 US dollars because of fees and exchange rates. It was a stupid move, but for some reason, I felt committed to eating there.
I ordered a plate and a bottle of water (at least I assumed it was water). I tried to pronounce the menu item correctly, but I don’t think I did very well. The total came to 16 euros, and I received the change in 2-euro coins.
At first, I planned to sit at the terrace because the indoor tables were full. However, some customers left after I ordered, so I quickly moved inside. I am not French. While waiting for my food, I noticed that some customers spoke English, so I assumed the kebab shop was popular with tourists as well. I also noticed how small the kitchen was and wondered how they managed to prepare all the food.
The restaurant became completely packed while I was there. My table was meant for up to four people, so an older man and his son sat on the other side. So, we were face-to-face. After about ten minutes, my plate arrived with a large portion of bread. The taste wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t my favorite. The bread was salty, and the side sauce tasted like toothpaste to me, although the lamb was well-seasoned and delicious. I don’t think I could survive in Turkey.
I finished it quickly and headed to Cologne’s main station. I stored my suitcase there for 3 euros and walked around the area. I tried to enter Cologne Cathedral since it’s free, but at the entrance, a woman told me I couldn’t enter because my backpack was too big. I didn’t really understand how my backpack affected entry, but I gave up. By the way, my backpack is 42 liters.
A Christmas market was being held nearby, so I decided to take a look. During this season, no matter where I go, there’s a Christmas market in Europe. The food stalls looked tempting, but I was still full from the kebab and regretted withdrawing 50 dollars just to eat what I did not enjoy. There were so many people that I wanted to leave as soon as I entered.
I finished writing the previous day’s journal at a Starbucks and waited for my train from Cologne to Düsseldorf. I took a fixed train, and there was no space for my suitcase, so I had to lift it onto the top shelf. After arriving, I went to the house of a person who kindly let me stay for a few days in Düsseldorf.
I visited his dojo to watch a junior class, and then we went to an ice hockey game. I didn’t have a ticket, but someone couldn’t attend, so I was able to go instead. I had never watched ice hockey before, so I was excited. I was surprised by how fast and intense the sport was. I once tried ice skating in Cannes, France, but I could barely keep my balance.
After the game, we returned to his house. Although it was late, I was invited to drink with two other people who had attended the game, along with the host. I had hot wine, but I couldn’t finish it. One person was Japanese, and the other was half Japanese and half German. Since English was the common language, we spoke in English, not Japanese or German. We stayed up past midnight, and the guests left by Uber. I was tired and had drunk a little, so I went straight to bed.
Saturday, December 13
I woke up to the sound of the TV. Since I hadn’t showered the night before, the first thing I did was take a shower, which has happened a few times during this trip. The bathroom is right next to my room, which is convenient. The house, by the way, is a four-story building.
My room used to belong to the host’s daughter from his previous marriage. He told me it’s now used as a guest room. There are still many toys and items she used to play with. He now lives with his new wife and their seven-year-old daughter. I’m sure the house is too big for just three people.
After showering, I went down to the kitchen. They had already started eating breakfast together while watching their daughter’s favorite TV show. I talked with the host and his wife. As usual, we talked about typical topics people discuss when meeting for the first time. His wife was surprised by my English; I think she assumed I didn’t speak it well. Since arriving in Europe, I’ve noticed that many people assume Japanese people don’t speak English well. That might have been true in the past, but I’m not sure if it still is. Their daughter didn’t talk to me at all and kept giving me strange looks. I am absolutely a stranger to her.
The host has an espresso machine and showed me how to make coffee from beans. I’m not sure if this is the proper method, but this is how he explained it: first, weigh 18 grams of beans. Second, grind them into powder. Third, put them into the portafilter and press them flat. Fourth, attach it to the espresso machine and brew 36 grams of coffee. Then you choose whether to add milk or water. It was interesting to watch and learn.
After breakfast, he showed me his music studio in the basement, where he makes music as a hobby. I realized he has many expensive hobbies. While I was impressed, I don’t think I could live that way.
At lunchtime, we went to a ballet performance in which their daughter was participating. She does both judo and ballet as extracurricular activities, probably influenced by her parents. Her father practices judo, and her mother does ballet. It seems she doesn’t like judo very much. Some of the children were Asian Germans. Since arriving in Düsseldorf, I’ve seen many Asian people, especially Japanese. I’d heard about this before, and it’s true—the Japanese population in and around Düsseldorf is said to be over 15,000.
After the ballet performance, we went to a nearby food market and had fish soup and white wine. The soup was slightly creamy and filled with seafood, and it quickly became one of my favorite dishes. Later, we visited a Christmas market in the city center, but I didn’t enjoy it much because I wasn’t interested in buying anything and there were too many people.
The host’s family let me try hot wine with a chunk of sugar. The sugar was set on fire and melted into the wine, making it sweet and easy to drink. As we walked around, I realized I was quite drunk, so we went home. I slept for about an hour and felt better afterward.
In the evening, an elderly neighbor came over for dinner. They ordered pizza for delivery, which surprised me. I realized that Germans and French people are quite different. While I can’t generalize, French people seem to value cuisine and long meals more than Germans. Dinner lasted only about 15 minutes, and everyone left shortly after. I also went to bed after saying goodbye to them.
Sunday, December 14
I woke up around 8 AM, but no one else was awake yet, so I went back to my room and read a book on my tablet. They woke up around 10 AM, which I assume is normal on weekends. We had breakfast together—various breads, boiled eggs, and vegetables.
After breakfast, the host suggested we work out, so we went to the basement, where they have exercise equipment. He told me he bought it during the COVID pandemic, when restrictions in Europe were very strict. It was my first workout in about two months, and I was really happy. It’s been difficult to find time and space to train during this trip.
After about an hour, we went to a massive park near the house, where their daughter loves to play. On the way, I bought a hot drink from a small local shop. Surprisingly, they had tip options. I heard that the tip is getting more common in Germany. The park was huge but surprisingly empty, which felt very different from France. A park of that size in France would likely be full of people. The quiet and calm atmosphere was something I really enjoyed.
Their daughter and other children played on swings and rode small bicycles. Later, we returned home and had a late lunch: homemade smash burgers. After relaxing for a while, the host invited a judo friend of his—German—and his Japanese wife over. At first, I wasn’t sure why, but later I learned that the host and his wife were going to a music concert and needed someone to watch their daughter.
After traveling alone with many unplanned situations for over two months, I’ve become used to unexpected events. We ordered sushi through Uber Eats, making it two days in a row with delivery food. After the quick dinner, the host and his wife left for the concert.
While the Japanese wife helped their daughter fall asleep, I watched judo videos on TV and talked with her German husband. He weighs over 100 kg and works as a strength training coach. He also practices judo, so we talked about training and my travels. Around 9:30 PM, I went to my room to rest and sleep on my last night in Germany. The couple stayed until the host parents returned from the concert.