July 19: Arrival in Sagada, a Peaceful Mountain Town

I woke up at about 9:00 AM after sleeping quite well. I took a quick shower and checked out with the front desk staff, who was killing time on his phone. The first thing I wanted to do was buy a bus ticket to Sagada, a peaceful town with a cool climate in Mountain Province.

When I got to the bus terminal, there was already a line in front of the ticket window. This time, there was an older woman working there instead of the woman I had seen the day before. She was much friendlier. I asked for the 1:00 PM bus because I did not want to arrive in Sagada late at night. She told me that the trip would take about six to seven hours. I paid 450 PHP ($7.30) for the ticket and headed to Mirador Heritage and Eco-Spirituality Park.

I first tried to catch a jeepney at the same place where I had boarded one the day before to go to Mt. Kalugong, but one of the drivers told me to go to the jeepney station near City Hall instead. When I arrived, I saw several different jeepneys and asked a couple of drivers how to get to the park. One of them guided me to his jeepney and told me to hop in. There was already one passenger lying down inside. I paid 13 PHP ($0.20) and waited for the jeepney to depart.

I am pretty sure jeepneys do not follow a timetable. Whenever the driver thinks there are enough passengers, they simply leave. The driver kept waiting and trying to squeeze in as many passengers as possible. Even though there were only two passengers at first, the jeepney eventually became so crowded that I thought the last passenger would never fit inside. I was wrong.

We finally departed. Along the way, one passenger got off. When I saw on Google Maps that we were approaching my stop, I said, “Para po” (“Please stop”), just as I had done the day before. Once again, it drew a lot of attention from the other passengers. Maybe my pronunciation was wrong, or perhaps I was using the wrong phrase. Either way, I managed to get off successfully and started climbing a long flight of stairs.

The entrance fee to the park was 150 PHP ($2.40). The view from the eco-park was quite similar to what I had seen at Mt. Kalugong, but the beautiful weather made everything look even better. Most of the visitors were young people dressed nicely, taking pictures at the various photo spots. Since I was traveling alone and had no one to take pictures for me, I simply sat on a bench and enjoyed the scenery.

After spending about 30 minutes there, I left and walked to a nearby restaurant that I had saved on Google Maps: Mang Ed Bakareta House.

When I arrived, there were only a few older female staff members sitting around with no customers. They could not hide their surprise at seeing me—a foreign traveler carrying a large backpack and dining alone. By then, however, I had become used to that kind of reaction while traveling solo in different countries.

Several dishes were displayed in a showcase, so I asked one of the staff members for her recommendation. She pointed to Bakareta, a savory Filipino beef stew, as well as another beef dish served with rice. Both dishes tasted great, but they were a bit too salty. Looking back, I probably should have ordered just one dish with rice.

While I was eating, one of the staff members, who appeared to be the oldest, kept watching me with curiosity.

The bill surprised me. It came to 575 PHP ($9.30), making it the most expensive meal I had had on this trip so far. I double-checked the menu because I thought I might have been overcharged, but the price was correct. Although the food was delicious, I probably would not come back.

On the way back, it started raining lightly, so I took another jeepney back to central Baguio. I still had about an hour and a half before my bus departed, so I killed some time at a coffee shop.

At around 12:30 PM, I returned to the bus terminal. The bus had already arrived, and several passengers were waiting to board. Before getting on, I bought another bottle of water at the 7-Eleven next to the terminal.

I did not expect the bus to leave exactly on time, but it did. The bus was packed with passengers. During the first hour, I slept. After that, I alternated between sleeping and listening to downloaded podcasts and music because there was no internet connection for much of the journey.

The bus stopped twice for bathroom breaks. Unlike in some other countries, using the toilets was free rather than requiring a mandatory fee.

One thing that fascinated me was how the driver seemed to know exactly where every passenger needed to get off. That is still a mystery to me. Along the way, more passengers boarded and sat on fold-down seats in the middle aisle. There was also another staff member standing near the door, making sure passengers got off safely and handing over packages that had been placed in the aisle. I had no idea what they were delivering.

Although some passengers, including a woman who looked to be in her sixties, got off before we reached Sagada, most people stayed on the bus until the final stop.

I kept checking Google Maps to make sure I got off at the right place. When we finally arrived, it was completely dark. It was about 6:30 PM, and it was cold enough that I had to put on my jacket.

As I walked toward my hotel, I unexpectedly came across a restaurant called Slabhouse Café. I ordered their signature dish for 280 PHP ($4.50), and it was delicious.

While walking to the lodge afterward, I noticed that there were so many dogs wandering around the streets. They hardly barked at all and seemed completely accustomed to people.

After about a ten-minute walk, I arrived at Kanip-Aw Pines View Lodge. When I entered, I saw a young mother and her children watching children’s videos in English on YouTube. An elderly woman checked me in. I did not even have to show my passport.

The atmosphere of the lodge immediately felt warm and welcoming. The family who owned the lodge, along with another family staying there as guests, created such a cozy environment as I was shown to my room. I instantly liked the ambience. For a moment, I wished I could have been part of their gathering.

It reminded me of one of my favorite childhood memories: spending New Year’s Day at my grandmother’s house, sharing a meal with my relatives. Everyone simply ate together and enjoyed each other’s company. The lodge brought back that same feeling of warmth. It made me realize how much I miss that kind of family atmosphere.

My room exceeded my expectations. It was a private room with its own bathroom, two beds, and everything was clean. The only small downside was that a few bugs had gotten in because the window was open.

I had not slept in such a nice private room in a long time. I felt as happy and excited as a child. I think lowering your standard of living for a while makes you appreciate simple comforts much more.

For the rest of the evening, I simply enjoyed having my own space. I could finally unpack my backpack, watch videos without wearing headphones, and use a private bathroom whenever I wanted. I went to bed at around 11:30 PM. After opening the window, the temperature in the room became perfect for sleeping.